All about bathroom inspections

• Bathroom sealing is often outdated

Special appliances, fixtures, or applications in the bathroom cannot always be fully inspected, such as hot tubs, jacuzzis, whirlpools, all types of jets, shower enclosures with varying degrees of body jets and with or without sound (radio), sunshowers, special lighting, and infrared applications. Most appliances and facilities, as intended and described, can only be fully and properly checked in practice.

If the entire bathroom is in such poor condition that repairing the tiling and fixtures is no longer economically viable, it's best to replace it entirely. Bathroom fixtures are essential for occupancy!

• Depending on the wishes and requirements placed on the new bathroom, the price of a new bathroom can vary considerably.
• After removing the bathroom, defects may become visible on the surface such as walls and floors.
• In the event of prolonged moisture exposure and poor sealing work, underlying wooden structures (such as a wooden floor) can become completely rotten.
• View our blog with video about a bathroom inspection here
• After inspection by a Homekeur inspector, you will receive a comprehensive building report

If the moisture content is too high, it could be due to prolonged moisture exposure (e.g., from poor sealing work), underlying (wooden) structures (e.g., a wooden floor or a plasterboard wall), which are completely rotten, moisture-damaged, or in such a condition that these components require replacement. It's also possible that moisture measurements don't provide any cause or indication of a defect; in that case, the measured percentages don't deviate significantly from the reference measurement, which should always be performed.

• If an increased moisture content is measured around the tap, the cause is often that the connection between the wall plate and the tiles behind the tap's escutcheons is not sealed, or not properly sealed. Water flowing along the tiles also gets behind the escutcheons! It's likely that the seal between the tiles and the tap connector isn't fitted with a flexible, waterproof seal, or that an existing seal is no longer functional. Preventative or remedial measures can be easily implemented in this case. Remove the escutcheons and the old seal and apply a new, high-quality, flexible, waterproof seal.
• The remaining sealant must also be in adequate condition. Constant moisture exposure softens the adhesives used for tiling and can cause loose tiles. A waterproof seal must then be created!
• If excessive moisture is measured in wet areas, poor grout or defects in the grout may be the cause. These defects can usually be repaired by replacing the grout. However, it's important to consider whether this is still realistic. In such cases, it's better to replace the tiles immediately.
• If the corners originally had a hard joint, we recommend applying a flexible sealant. The existing joints are cracked or partially missing, and in any case, this hard joint is not waterproof. We often recommend removing the hard joint and applying a flexible sealant.

• Also be alert to loose tiles; tapping the walls in various places with a dowel or your ring, for example, often quickly provides clarity.

• Remove any old, damaged, or loose tiles, clean the surface thoroughly, and allow it to dry for a while, if necessary, after which new tiles can be applied.
• Unfortunately, replacing grout isn't easy; the old grout would have to be removed. This poses a risk of damaging the tiled surface.
• It's also possible to consider repointing only the damaged areas. The downside to this is a potential color difference.
• The old sealant must first be removed, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned, after which the new sealant can be applied and the whole thing can function properly again.
• An average price of €15 per linear meter can be assumed. For larger quantities of sealant, the price per meter can even decrease.
• If only a very minimal amount of sealant work is required, the price per meter can still increase considerably.
• Good and beautiful caulking is a specialized job! Can't manage to do a neat job yourself? Then ask for local advice or contact a contractor who can assist you.

Bathroom ventilation must be well-regulated. There must be sufficient ventilation options to remove water vapor. This effective ventilation prevents condensation from forming on materials or surfaces, preventing mold growth, for example. User behavior is always a key element of effective ventilation.

If the bathroom's ventilation/exhaust system is controlled by natural ventilation, improper use poses a risk of mold growth on walls and ceilings. Effective ventilation in a bathroom is important and essential for both the user and the various bathroom and structural components. Condensation damages materials, can lead to mold growth, and creates an unhealthy environment for the user.

• You can ventilate your bathroom naturally by using any existing ventilation grille in the window or by leaving the window slightly open for a while during and after showering. However, this isn't always possible or sufficient.
• Inadequate ventilation creates an unhealthy indoor climate. Natural ventilation can work, but the homeowner must experience its effectiveness.
• Depending on the year the house was built, natural ventilation is not uncommon; if it changes, mechanical ventilation/extraction may be more appropriate.
• In some cases, people often opt for (additional) mechanical ventilation/extraction in the bathroom. Of course, you can always consider this later!

If ventilation/exhaust in the bathroom is inadequate, this poses a risk of mold on walls and ceilings. Effective ventilation in a bathroom is important and essential for both the user and the various bathroom and structural components. Condensation damages materials, can cause mold growth, and creates an unhealthy environment for the user.

• You can ventilate the bathroom naturally by installing a ventilation grille in the window or by leaving the window slightly open for a while during and after showering. However, this isn't always possible, which is why mechanical ventilation is often chosen for bathrooms.
• Ventilation can be improved by installing a bathroom fan . This efficiently removes moist air, reducing humidity in the bathroom and allowing it to dry faster. Mold can't grow in a dry environment. Bathroom fans are inexpensive and easy to install.

Not only is the extraction system important, but also circulation. If there are insufficient ventilation intakes, a gap of at least 1 cm must be left under the door when the door is closed. You can also choose to install a grille in the door. The existing extraction system must be able to function properly! This is especially important for a bathroom; insufficient ventilation causes mold on ceilings, grout, and possibly even the walls. We therefore recommend shortening the bottom of the door slightly or installing a grille in the door to create circulation.

If mold is already present on the walls and/or ceilings in your bathroom, the only way to combat it is to improve ventilation. Furthermore, mold can be removed in various ways: with baking soda, chlorine bleach, or a special anti-mold product. If ventilation isn't improved, the mold will quickly return.

• In the bathroom, a lot of water vapor is produced during showering or bathing. If this vapor isn't sufficiently removed through natural or mechanical ventilation, it will quickly condense. Tiny water droplets then form on the wall, ceiling, window, or mirror.
• Walls and ceilings are particularly susceptible to mold because their surfaces are often rough and somewhat porous, and can therefore absorb a certain amount of moisture. This makes them a good breeding ground for mold.
• Mold can grow anywhere in the bathroom, as long as the areas remain damp for extended periods. Common locations include caulking (sink, bathtub, shower tray), the top of the wall, the ceiling, and the grout between tiles.

The bathroom should have a ground wire. It's naturally not visible whether all metal parts are properly grounded. Just as you can't see whether there's a grounding mat under any floor tiles, it's not always visible. According to NEN1010, all metal parts in a bathroom must be grounded. These parts can also be grounded behind a wall or tile finish. In a finished bathroom, this is difficult to check.

Where possible, a grounding terminal should be mounted in a visible or accessible location. The CAP (central grounding point) must be accessible. The CAP is usually mounted in a wall-mounted electrical box under the sink, in a box with a removable lid. If the CAP is not visible, this doesn't mean that objects are not grounded, but that you can't visually determine this. It's quite possible that grounding of objects behind tiles or other finishes is present.

• People in bathrooms usually have soaking wet skin or are immersed in water. Consequently, skin resistance is very low. A small touch voltage is enough to cause a dangerous and even fatal current to flow through the human body. Body resistance is also different in these areas because protective equipment such as footwear and other protective gear is often lacking. Therefore, additional requirements are placed on the electrical system in these areas.
• A key component of bathroom electrical systems is the grounding of wall outlets and metal objects (such as a metal bathtub or radiator). These must be connected to the electrical system with a ground wire. This is because water is a good electrical conductor. Proper grounding ensures that a residual current device (GFCI) quickly interrupts the power supply, and the risk of injury is reduced if electrical voltage is encountered.
• Grounding in a bathroom is important. Read our blog post about why grounding is important.

If there are wall sockets in the bathroom, check whether they are properly grounded. Ungrounded electrical outlets and light switches should not be used in bathrooms. If these are not grounded and therefore not connected to a circuit with a residual current device (RCD), we recommend seeking further advice from an electrician. Therefore, ungrounded electrical outlets and light switches should not be used in bathrooms. We therefore recommend disconnecting them or installing them outside the bathroom. Another solution is to install a ground wire and a grounded wall socket. Consult an electrician!